Northwest Wisconsin
Apostle Islands & Bayfield
Twenty-one forested islands, sandstone sea caves carved by the largest freshwater lake in the world, and a brownstone harbour town on the hills above it.
Why this corner is different
Lake Superior holds about 10% of the world's fresh surface water and is cold enough to sink a swimmer in twenty minutes. That cold keeps the air cool in summer, delays spring by three weeks and produces weather that changes faster than any forecast can follow. It also carved the sandstone shoreline into arches, caves and columns at the waterline — the feature everyone comes to see.
Bayfield, the mainland base, is a town of 500 people in winter and several thousand in July, built up a steep hillside from a harbour. Below it, the orchards begin.
The sea caves, and how to see them
There are two sets: the mainland caves near Meyers Beach, and the more remote caves on Sand Island and the Devils Island shoreline. Access is by boat, kayak or, in a hard winter, on foot across the ice.
By kayak
The standard trip launches at Meyers Beach, 25 km west of Bayfield, and crosses about 3 km of open water to the mainland caves. With a licensed outfitter it takes four hours and includes a guide, a sit-on-top kayak and a wetsuit. The crossing is exposed: wind and cold water are the two things that end trips early. Beginners are fine on a calm day and should not attempt it on a rough one.
By tour boat
The reliable option when the wind is up. Cruises run from Bayfield harbour to the islands, with a full-day version reaching Devils Island and its lighthouse. You see the caves from the water rather than inside them, but you get further and you stay dry.
Other island highlights
- Madeline Island — the only inhabited island, reached by a 20-minute car ferry from Bayfield. Big Bay State Park has a sand beach and a lagoon; the town of La Pointe has a museum and a very good coffee shop.
- Raspberry Island — a restored 1863 lighthouse you can tour with a ranger in summer.
- Stockton Island — the largest, with 25 km of trails and a ranger-naturalist programme.
- Sand Island — a lighthouse, a campground and the easiest paddle from the mainland.
Winter ice caves
In a cold, low-snow year the mainland caves freeze into curtains of ice that draw thousands of visitors. They form inconsistently: some years not at all. Access is only via the national lakeshore's official notices, and never without checking ice conditions and a guide. Do not plan a trip around them unless the park has confirmed they are open.
Bayfield itself
Two streets of 19th-century brownstone and timber climbing from the ferry dock, with a few very good restaurants and almost no chain anything. The town is small enough to walk in twenty minutes and has enough to occupy a wet afternoon: the regional museum, the ferry watching, the harbour.
The orchards
The hills behind Bayfield grow apples, and the orchard weekends from late September into October are the region's busiest events. Several farms run pick-your-own, cider pressing and hayrides. This is also where the region's berries come from in July.
Big Top Chautauqua
A tented summer music and theatre venue south of town, running a season of folk, bluegrass and regional history shows from June to September. It is a genuinely unusual night out, and the tent sits in a field with the lake behind it.
Where to stay
- Bayfield — inns and cottages within walking distance of the ferry, restaurants and the harbour. Book early for orchard weekends.
- Madeline Island — quieter, with rentals and a state park campground; you need the ferry for every crossing.
- Washburn and Ashland — 20–40 minutes south, cheaper, and useful if Bayfield is full.
- Camping — the national lakeshore campgrounds on Stockton and Sand islands require a permit and a boat to reach them.
Getting there
- From Madison: 480 km north, about 5 hours.
- From Minneapolis: 4 hours.
- From Milwaukee: about 6 hours.
- Nearest airports: Duluth (2 hours) and Ashland (small, 40 minutes).
When to go
Mid-June to mid-September for kayaking, ferries, orchards and the music tent. Late September and early October for colour and apple harvest, with the caveat that the water is too cold for most paddlers. Winter for cross-country skiing and, in the right year, the ice caves. The town largely closes between November and April.
For a full northern route, see the five-day northwoods and Lake Superior itinerary. For the wider region, Places to Go.
In pictures
Cold water, deep blue, red rock
You are already in the northwoods
Bayfield is the end point of the state's best long drive. If you have a few days, work your way here through the lakes and forests rather than flying straight in.